Tuesday, 14 July 2009

Ezcaba Campsite 3rd July 2009

Well it looks like all that are arriving have arrived, although it is Sunday so you never know. What this means is the “space” we have on either side of the MS is still there which also means that, after cutting down some branches, we may be able to get out.

Planned next stop is Mortagne-sur-Gironde in the Poitou region of France, a 250 mile hop but that is not until 8th and we still have the Bulls to contend with.

Next to us are 2 motorhomes, one belonging to a Scottish couple, Norman and Rose, and the other to about 4 or 5 Spanish guys. Soon as they arrived, on with the built in ghetto blasters, at full ghetto mind you, and I guess it sounded like what used to be, or maybe still is, “house” music. THUMP! THUMP!....................THUMP! etc ad infonitum. No, I’m not talking about Norman and Rose.

They also must have a young lady, or one of the guy’s balls have not dropped, because someone in there struck up a guitar and she/he began to sing. I don’t know what the song was but every note was missed by a very wide margin; we were in the middle of dinner and had to stop eating - don’t give up your day job just yet, pet.

It was a relief when the main dance music came on from a large tent 100 m away and drowned them out with a different kind of thump and continued until 3 in the morning. Just dropping off and then woken at 5 am with the same guys right outside the MS. I thought at first they were putting a tent up because of the knocking sounds, looked out of window and they were playing castanets. That was definitely a first.

Woke up at around 6:30, God knows why, and had a job not turning the outside speakers to full and putting on a CD of Matt Monroe.

Went for what we thought would be a short, 5-6 mile cycle, of course we got lost, for the second time in two days and it turned out more like 18 miles.
(by the way I know I am in Europe and I should be using kilometres, however if I tell Tricia the distance in kms, she just complains it’s too far and she isn’t going)
How you get lost when you cycle alongside a river, cross a few bridges along the way and then cycle back is (was) beyond me. It turns out that probably when our backs were turned or more likely one of Tricia’s “stops”, the bloody Spanish slipped in another river!

I realised later that we were crossing at the meeting of two rivers, one of which I still do not know the name of, and of course following the wrong river back in almost the same scenery , but vastly different direction. As the sun here is almost permanently overhead, guessing north is not an option. Still, good for the fitness.

I DO NOT BELIVE IT!

I’m typing this at 8:05 (IN THE MORNING) and it’s started up again! (the thump) Admittedly from another motorhome but come on, is there any justice!
No it is them, only they have not opened up all the windows and doors yet AND they are having a go with the guitar again; sounds like trying to put a cat through a grater.

Today the plan is to find the quickest way into Pamplona by bike for the bull run because although there will be buses available from 5 in the morning it’s almost a 30 minute walk to get to the bus stop, and there will be hundreds trying to get on, so bike it is.

Pamplona 6th July

Well, I was wrong about thinking everyone who was going to arrive had arrived, they really started to arrive today.
There were huge queues at reception and in the small space between the vertical drop and the Mothership 2 tents materialised and on the other side another caravan full of Spanish managed to squeeze in along with along with four Italian guys in their motorhome, we can now just about open our door to get out.

Went into Pamplona by yet another route and got lost, again. So it ended up a 24 mile round trip and Tricia was well knackered. The Bull Run itself was very crowded but we managed to video it because I reckon no matter what time we go in tomorrow, 5’ish, we will not get much of a look.
Found some nice parks, including Parque Yamaguchi named after a place in Japan were a local, Saint Francis Xavier lived for a while in the 16th century and which Pamplona is twinned.

The San Fermine’s festival shirts were €16 in the city, we managed to pick them up for €6 just outside as we took in the parks. Might have got one for Swanny.
There were lots of adverts for the use of balconies on the run, €45 for 15 minutes, not a bad rate eh?
When we eventually got back there were even more tents and people. Main reason was tonight was the main gig at the camp site and represented the start of the festival.

My God! I’ve just been talking to John and Irene from Bromley, over here for their two week holiday in a motorhome. He has wanted to do the run for the last 20 odd years and this is his time. What he told me about the run, however, I did not know. First he asked if I was doing it, not on your nelly. Then he said that all the volunteers, and if you did you couldn’t UN volunteer once you were there if you bottled, had to be in their place at a certain time or no go.

It’s approximately ¼ of a mile up cobbled streets and the best men can do it in 3-4 minutes, the bulls can do it in 2 so you are going to be overtaken by at least 16 sharp horns. Definitely count me out.

Went into Pamplona, by another different route, how did you guess? and not only was it quicker, we did not get lost and ended at the top of the town next to the bull ring.

This was the first official day of the festival and did not include bulls (tomorrow).
It involved thousands of people dressed in red and white throwing red wine over each other, banging drums, screaming, singing and dancing, almost like a Sunderland home match (except for the thousands of people and change red wine to cans of Stella).

As you can see from the pictures you just could not move once you got into the streets. We managed to find a table in the square and get a couple of coffees, Tricia had to go and was gone for almost 35 minutes, I nearly went back without her.
Lunch was a mixed salad for me and a small plate of paella for Tricia, €36, enough said. Well not really, one of my teeth, small molar, broke in half; I’m sure I brought some superglue.

Pamplona 7th The Bull Run.

Tricia went to bed at 10 pm and I stayed up, put my ear phones in and watched the second episode of “Tinker, Tailor, Solider, Spy” which she doesn’t like much, the usual music played on in the background.

Then a 5 am start, into the “San Fermine” gear, get in line for the toilet, eat a quick brekky, attached lights (it was still dark) and keep on assuring Tricia that this time does actually exist on a clock.
On to the bikes, because relying on the bus was not the best idea with hundreds of people milling around. On the way in we noticed quite a few people dressed for the festival coming the other way, was there something we didn’t know? 5 minutes later I’m locking the bikes up and Tricia is changing into her shorts on a park bench. For some reason I am the only person wearing pink shorts and the many stares I got were trying to tell me something I should know?

Although we arrived with hours to spare, not a space remained. Standing 2 deep next to the barriers near the bull ring did not appeal to us because of the crush. The place smelt of urine, cheap wine and vomit and was strewn with debris from the previous evening. There were also a lot of people still sleeping in the park and on the streets. The steady drinkers were still going hard at it and were, from the look on most faces and inability to walk in a straight line, still drunk.

We tried the main square but the supposed large screen was nowhere to be seen. So it was back to the bull ring and onto some steps which gave us a tiny patch where we could just make out the tops of the runners heads. That was when 2 ambulances hove into view and parked.

The firework to start the event went at 8 am and then again slightly later (?) then some commotion, a few blurry rushing heads and then it was over. Did not hear any thunder of hooves, screaming, guts been hurled over the wall, nothing. 40 minutes later we were back in the MS watching the clouds come over and the thermometer drop to 21º C.

I guess the above is not exactly painting a picture of a great event but the reason is the change from the exciting and boisterous, clean and merry drunk crowds of the first day in juxtaposition to this sorry lot, was a bit of a come down. Not actually seeing the bulls was in there as well mind.

If there is a next time I would pay the €45 for the balcony. All in all we can tick the box and I’m glad we did it but not for the next 7 days.
BTW no pictures as no batteries for camera so it’s all on video instead.

We started to prepare for our departure in the morning so got the job of cleaning out the tanks. Just got everything ready and this guy from one of our outposts of tents came along and pointed to the front wheel of the Navara. I thought it was a twig; I’d been cutting the overhanging branches of the tree that was blocking us in so I guessed it had fallen on the front tyre. It was a 10 inch long by half inch thick tent/awning peg that some one had left in the ground and was now imbedded in my tyre. Change with the spare, first time for that, and repair with my “professional” tyre repair kit, then back to the tanks. Thank God he had pointed it out in time because if I just drove off with it still in it would have completely wrecked the tyre.

Pamplona 8th into France!

Getting out was fun, cars moved, gates opened and then down a very steep slope and with lots of people helping just squeezed through the gaps, and out!

On to the AP15 toll road because the A121a, which went true north, kind of wiggled a lot through the mountains, which usually meant climbs with tight bends. Passed south of St Sebastian and across the French border with lots of enquiring looks from the police but did not get stopped.
On to the A63, more tolls and finally turned off for our destination, Mortagne-sur-Gironde, a small fishing village and Aire for motorhomes.

Coming into the village the roads got tighter and tighter, as did the bends. The GPS must have been set on “shortest” because it was trying to take us where we just could not go. On one bend a car appeared, we were on his side of the road, and trying to avoid a collision managed to scrape the awing cover on a tree. Never did like that awning anyway, now a bit torn, but it is amazing what you can do with a roll of silver gaffer tape. Getting down to the port was fun, narrow streets, tight turns, sweaty palms, high blood pressure and we are there!
Stacks of space for parking and are now hooked up to electricity in the middle of a field overlooking the marina, sorry Alan, port.

Went to pay the €6 for the night and was informed if we ate in the single table farm “restaurant” it would be free camping, dinner was for 8pm. We were basically in the farm’s front room with all sorts of personal stuff all around; it was like a family dinner. It turned out to be Moroccan cuisine with eight other people, including a number of friends of the owner, all French, only one spoke some English, we got by. Meal was superb and all the wine you could drink. Much later we said our “bon nite” and it was off to a deep and quite sleep.

I have always wanted to be in a place where at night there were no city lights, no city/townscape, a placid sea nearby, a full moon and an inky black sky full of stars, last night I got it.

To use a phrase from James Taylor’s “Up on the roof”.
“and at night the stars, they put on a show for free”

We may stay another night.
We did.

Mortagne-sur-Gironde 9th July

Walked about a bit, took some pictures and left on the 10th.
Getting out was fun as well, the other route out was up a steep hill and I was hoping to get a good run into it but somebody had placed some bollards at the corner preventing a quick turn. (well, I’m sure they were not there the other day)

Managed OK and through some tight turns out of the village, destination somewhere around Tours. We tried a few and either we were not allowed on or we (SWMBO) did not like them. By this time I was pretty frazzled with all the U turns, three point turns (Yes THREE point turns) etc. Some I just said we should push on to good old Disney World, Paris.

This time we actually got in and managed a shower.

Next stop; we were booked on the 4pm ferry on Monday 13th so a couple of nights to go, was Le Touquet, where Tricia had picked out a couple of sites. As we approached however she suddenly decided that a place in Le Crotoy was favourite. On to a packed Aire (70 odd motorhomes) parked and hooked up. Knock knock, opened door and a dark uniformed guy, with a gun, was telling me something in French. What I did understand however was that as we were not a true Motorhome we could not stay. Told him I’d just put €2 in the meter and paid €7 to the manager and he relented but we had to leave the next day. Next day it was 19° C and pissing down so I said sod Le Touquet, let’s get an early ferry, the 12th, and we did and I’m now finishing this off here in my front room at home.

Friday, 3 July 2009

Not Bonterra Park 3rd July 2009






















Although we were expecting to stay until 4th July, decided to leave as it was getting a little noisy with ever more Spanish families and it may be cooler further north. So typed in the GPS stuff for a campsite near Pamplona (320 mile trip but turned out more, see later) and away we went, well not quite that simple. (Tricia having "lunch on the journey)

The day before we left I told Tricia it would be better if we hooked up and drove over to the pitch opposite. My reasoning being if someone decided to take the plot there was not much we could do to stop then except we couldn’t get out without chopping some trees down, Luckily we did because one hour later all the rest of the spaces were taken!
Paid the day before which was expected, what was not expected was a bill for €120 for less that two months electric!

Just a matter of driving out then. Managed to negotiate the one tree that was in our way then down past reception and manage to knock the barrier off its stanchion. It turns out that when it lifted it did not go fully vertical. Also turns out that it is only plastic and “it happens all the time”. No damage, no problemo!
Off down the A340 and everything OK. Not! The outside shower unit decided to become unlocked and so is now swinging around at the back and bashing into the road, couldn’t stop as no hard shoulder. So carried on until we could, no damage and stowed away safely.

On towards Zaragosa, up some “hills” that reduced our speed to 45 mph and mpg to nothing. As this, the A23, was a new dual carriageway there were no petrol stations on it so we had to pull off to find one, alright many. So, pulling out of a station and the road only goes back in the direction of Valencia where we had just come from! Back down “hills” for a number of miles, turn round and back. We almost needed fuel again.

Arrived at Pamplona and the GPS had determined that we should have a look at the town. Pulling 13 m off truck and trailer through a town is not quite what I would call full, but after Paris, bring it on mate.

Arrived at Ezcaba campsite OK. Drove to reception, yeas we can stay. “Have you come for the festival?” “Que?” We new about the famous Bull run through Pamplona which was due to start 6th July. “No, not that our Ezcaba festival”.
"The Pamplona bikre ride"
Turns out that to coincide with the Bull Run, they have their own “do”.
On 4th July thousands of people, mostly aged under 25, camp there and play pop music VERY LOUD all day for 2 weeks. I found a pair of ear plugs a little later, ominous sign. Talk about out of the frying pan. Also camp prices, which are already high (high season) double for the festival, cost €300 for the week. Oh well we do want to see the bulls.
(the lightening rod)

There are signs round the site “no alcohol to be brought onto the site, available from site shop only”. We found out why later, their “magic shop” (turns €5 into a litre of milk), everything was 5 times the price”. I had picked up 6 cans of local stuff and she said €15!! QUE!!

Getting in however was our first trial. Bloody trees again!

The guy who was to “guide” us in obviously had not noticed that we had an A/C unit on the roof. So after a few back and forwards started to pull onto our pitch “bonk!”

Ah well it had never worked anyway. Found another way in but was then told that when the campsite filled up we might not be able to get out again and remain here until September.

So we are now in and level, which is a new one on us and have got the best view you could imagine. Of course the people that had the view before were not gleeful that this 13m x 2.3 m x 3.5 m “lump” was now in their way.

Cycled into Pamplona, only 6 miles, but after flat beach runs the hills nearly killed us.
We stopped to have a 3 coarse €12 each lunch in the Plaza Principal De Viana. I had a salad starter like no other I have ever had before. It was the usual thing with Gambo (king prawns) and also little thin things that I could not figure the taste of, some sort of Chinese type young bamboo shoots. In the supermarket later, I found out that they were baby eels.

Cycled the actual Bull Run, which goes from the north of town, just inside the city walls, for about 1 mile in distance and finally arriving at the bull ring where I guess God knows what happens to them... Fun eh? On parts of the walls you can make out holes made by horn strikes.

It also starts at 8 am. So that’s a 6 am get up and 1 hour cycle to get there in time and it only lasts about 15 minutes or they are buses from some where near that start running at 5 am. Also learnt that only 8 bulls are let loose each morning where I thought, from the movies etc; that there were hundreds.
We shall see if SWMBO can get up in time.

Whilst there we found the Europa Hotel, the back rooms over look the end of the run. This was the hotel we stayed at with the Swans on one of our motorcycle tours, the hotel was reasonable and cheapish but the restaurant was apparently one of the best in Spain, it was. Unfortunately those were the days pre whip, (whip; a bag containing money from all parties to cover expenses such as eating and drinking et.) and of coarse it was the Swins turn to pay. Alan actually chortled when he saw the prices, b**tid.

Couple in their 70’s I reckon, turned up in their VW camper van and parked right next to us. They have had the van for about 20 years and been just about everywhere with it, just goes to show what you can do when you still have the will.

Just started to use my Olympus 4/3rds DSLR E-420 (yes, it’s a camera) as recommended by my son Adam. How many buttons/controls can you have on such a small gadget! I have read the manual, something I never do, it’s a man thing. If you can not use it out of the box it should be chucked away. Well you can use it, like point and shoot but apparently you can also see through walls, turn the sky orange, leap high buildings and distort people into Bugs Bunny amongst other things. It also shoots video and can be used as a chock to hold up our wonky table. Back to manual.

Today because of the high price of Gods own life giving liquid, booze, we will drive to the nearest supermarket and “fill up” for the week and smuggle it in. Might get some food as well.

When we got to our plot and were safely parked I looked at the site map and noticed their was a WiFi point right next to us, it turns out to be the camps lightening conductor. I tried to convince Tricia that this is probably the safest place to be because lightening will prefer it rather than us, (her, is all she thinks), but as a precaution she should cut back on her multivitamins with iron. So since then she insists on sleeping on her plastic Pilates mat on top of the bed. (Thinks, a little bit of Vaseline and it would be frictionless, kinky or what?). In your dreams kid.

Lazy day today as Tricia is “knackered” from cycle ride, so it’s washing and shopping. Temperature is now a balmy 28° C with a slight breeze, lovely.

As I type there are lots of people turning up and filling the site, 1,800 Australians are due tomorrow, at least we will not be short on bar staff. I must though I think we were spoiled at Bonterra because although Ezcaba has all the normal facilities it is nowhere near as good.

Just been out to defy all the rules and found the nearest supermarket 6 miles away, now fridge is fully stocked with fish, milk, eggs, meat, salad stuff and what was that other stuff ?……………..er..er.. begins with B? I forget.

Message for Swanny, have brought a case of the cheap, good, Cava, unfortunately the way Tricia is putting it away, you may get the case but no Cava.

Have to go now and get our “wrist bracelet” that allows access in and out of camp, feel like a bloody kid again.